its written by monica

A practical guide to proper cleansing technique for acne-prone skin
Intro: I Used to Wash My Face 4–6 Times a Day
I used to believe that acne could be washed away. Whenever I saw shine on my face, I would wash it again—sometimes four, five or even six times a day. And I did not wash gently. I scrubbed until my face was red, hot and painful. I used soaps, facial cleansers, scrubs, sponges, brushes, hot water and cold water. I thought the harder and more frequently I washed, the faster I would remove oil and stop new acne.
Instead, my skin became increasingly sensitive, irritated and uncomfortable. Eventually I realized something important: I knew I was doing something wrong, but I did not know how to get it right. That is a dilemma I have seen repeatedly in people dealing with acne.
That is why this article is not about washing your face harder. It is about learning how to cleanse properly—and understanding when double cleansing is useful, when it is unnecessary, and why gentle technique matters.
First: Double Cleansing Is Not Washing Your Face Twice With a Harsh Cleanser
Double cleansing generally means using two cleansing steps, often beginning with an oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm, or with micellar water, and following with a gentle water-based cleanser. The first step is especially useful for removing makeup, sunscreen and other product buildup. The second step completes cleansing with a gentle facial cleanser.
Most people do not automatically need to double cleanse. Dermatology guidance emphasizes gentle cleansing and warns that over-washing and scrubbing can irritate acne-prone skin. Double cleansing can be particularly useful when there is substantial makeup or water-resistant sunscreen to remove. cite note: American Academy of Dermatology and Cleveland Clinic sources linked below.
Who May Benefit From Double Cleansing?
- People who wear heavy or long-wearing makeup.
- People using water-resistant or heavy sunscreen that is difficult to remove with one gentle cleanse.
- People who have substantial product buildup at the end of the day.
- People who have been sweating heavily or have significant environmental/product residue to remove, provided their skin tolerates the routine.
Who May Not Need It?
If you do not wear makeup, have little product buildup, and your gentle cleanser removes your daily skincare comfortably, a second cleansing step may be unnecessary. People with very dry, sensitive or already-irritated skin should be particularly cautious because unnecessary cleansing can increase dryness and irritation. Cleveland Clinic likewise notes that most skin types do not need double cleansing.
Why I Do Not Recommend Double Cleansing Morning and Night
One of the biggest misconceptions I see is the idea that acne requires more cleansing. It does not. For someone who needs double cleansing, I generally see it as an evening routine: remove the day’s makeup, sunscreen and buildup, then cleanse gently. In the morning, a single appropriate cleanse is usually enough for most people; some very dry or sensitive skin types may even prefer a gentler approach.
Your goal is not to make your skin squeaky-clean. Your goal is to remove what needs removing without unnecessarily irritating the skin.
Step-by-Step: How to Double Cleanse Correctly
1. Wash your hands. Before touching your face, wash and dry your hands. Clean hands help prevent transferring additional grime to the skin.
2. Start with dry skin for an oil cleanser or cleansing balm. Apply a small amount to dry fingers and gently massage over dry skin. Focus on areas where makeup and sunscreen are concentrated. Use a light touch; there is no need to scrub.
3. Give the first cleanse enough time to work. Work the product gently for roughly 30–60 seconds, following the product’s own instructions. If you are using a balm or oil cleanser, add a little water and emulsify if the product is designed to do so. The product may turn milky as it emulsifies.
4. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Rinse the first cleanser away. Pay attention to the hairline, ears, jawline and neck. Avoid very hot water, which can irritate and dry the skin.
5. Move to the second cleanse on damp skin. Apply a gentle water-based facial cleanser suited to your skin type. A gel, cream or low-foaming cleanser may all be appropriate depending on your skin.
6. Massage gently—do not scrub. Use your fingertips and gentle circular movements. Around 20–60 seconds is a practical teaching range, but the cleanser’s directions should take priority. The American Academy of Dermatology specifically recommends applying cleanser gently with the fingertips and avoiding abrasive tools.
7. Rinse completely. Use lukewarm water and remove all cleanser residue.
8. Pat dry with a clean towel—or air dry. Do not aggressively rub your face. If you use a towel, use a clean, soft towel and pat rather than scrub.
9. Moisturize while the skin is slightly damp. Apply an appropriate moisturizer after cleansing. Moisturizing helps support the skin barrier and can be particularly useful when acne treatments cause dryness.
The 10 Cleansing Mistakes I Wish I Had Avoided
1. Over-washing because the face looks oily.
2. Scrubbing acne as if it can be physically removed.
3. Using facial brushes, sponges or rough tools aggressively.
4. Using very hot water.
5. Using harsh bar, body, deodorant or fragranced soaps on the face.
6. Rubbing the face hard with a towel.
7. Using dirty or shared towels on acne-prone skin.
8. Reusing dirty makeup-removal pads.
9. Failing to rinse around the ears, hairline, jaw and neck.
10. Choosing a cleanser without considering the person’s skin condition, current acne treatment or level of irritation.
A Client Lesson I Keep Coming Back To
In working with clients, I have repeatedly seen people arrive with skin that has been traumatized by their own anxiety. They were washing frequently and aggressively because they wanted the acne gone immediately. Some had severe irritation, painful inflamed lesions, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and damaged-looking skin. For those clients, my first response was often not to add more cleansing—it was to reduce the aggression and allow the skin to settle.
For clients who wore heavy makeup as a way of coping with visible acne, double cleansing could make sense because there was genuinely more product to remove. Once they learned to cleanse gently and consistently, their skin often became calmer and their routine became easier to maintain.
The lesson is simple: double cleansing is a tool, not a punishment. More cleansing is not automatically better cleansing.
Cleansing Does Not Cure Acne
Proper cleansing is an important part of acne-friendly skincare, but cleansing alone is not an acne treatment plan. Acne can have multiple contributing factors and often requires targeted treatment appropriate to the type and severity of acne. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends gentle skincare alongside appropriate acne treatment and notes that deep, painful nodules or cysts warrant dermatologic care.
If your acne is persistent, worsening, painful, scarring, or repeatedly inflamed—or if your skin is becoming increasingly irritated—do not spend months experimenting on your own. A dermatologist can determine what type of acne you have and whether prescription treatment is appropriate.
How I Assess a Cleanser Before Recommending It
I do not believe in recommending a cleanser simply because someone says, ‘I have oily skin.’ Assessment comes first. In person, I look at the skin and take a history. Remotely, I may ask for clear frontal, left and right photographs and ask about symptoms, products, previous treatments and how long the problem has been present.
Two people can both have acne and need very different approaches. One person may be oily and congested. Another may be dry or dehydrated because of over-cleansing. Another may have sensitive, irritated skin. Someone else may have inflammatory acne or be using strong acne treatments that already make their skin vulnerable to irritation. The cleanser has to fit the person—not the other way around.
My Biggest Double-Cleansing Opinion
Double cleansing should be balanced. I strongly dislike the idea that ‘double cleansing’ means using two aggressive cleansers one after another. The point is not to attack the skin twice. The point is to use an appropriate first step when there is substantial product buildup and then a gentle second cleanse to finish the job.
Some people also avoid oil cleansers because they assume that putting an oil-based cleanser on oily or acne-prone skin will automatically cause a breakout. That is too simplistic. The suitability of a product depends on its formulation, how it is used and the individual skin. Likewise, not every person needs an oil cleanser at all.
The ‘Do This Tonight’ Routine
- Wash and dry your hands.
- If you are wearing makeup or a difficult-to-remove sunscreen, begin with an appropriate first cleanser on dry skin.
- Massage gently—never scrub—to loosen makeup and sunscreen.
- Emulsify and rinse if your cleanser requires it.
- Use a gentle second cleanser on damp skin.
- Massage gently with fingertips and rinse thoroughly.
- Pat dry with a clean towel or allow the skin to air dry.
- Apply your appropriate acne treatment if it is part of your established routine.
- Moisturize; apply moisturizer to slightly damp skin when appropriate.
- Remember: double cleanse when there is a reason to, not simply because you have acne.
When to Stop Experimenting and Get Professional Help
Please seek professional help when acne is persistent or worsening, when you have deep or painful lesions, when scarring or significant dark marks are developing, or when your skin is repeatedly painful, burning or inflamed. The sooner significant inflammatory acne is appropriately treated, the better the chance of limiting complications such as scarring.
My Final Message: Follow the Science
Do not do anything uninformed. Do not make an assumption, apply something, cross your fingers and hope it works. Put the right routine in the right situation.
Acne skincare has to be gentle. The products need to be appropriate. The routine needs to be consistent. And you need patience. My own acne journey taught me that the skin does not need aggression—it needs understanding.
If I could leave someone with acne with one message about cleansing, it would be this: do it gently, use the right products, and do not confuse more cleansing with better cleansing. Acne skincare is a science. Follow the science, and give your skin the chance to respond.
Further Reading & Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology — 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne
- American Academy of Dermatology — How to treat acne
- American Academy of Dermatology — How to treat different types of acne
- American Academy of Dermatology — 10 skin care secrets for healthier-looking skin
- Cleveland Clinic — Double Cleansing Method Explained